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Continue reading →: M2. When the River StilledFor generations, the river had been known for its strength and energy.Each spring it spilled eagerly over its banks, the urgent slap of water against stone, rushing into the fields, giving life to seeds and replenishing tired soil. The villagers praised its abundance. They planted closer and closer to its…
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Continue reading →: M1. The Night She Dimmed the LightFor so many years, she had kept the lighthouse burning bright without question.Every evening, as the sky bruised into indigo, pink and orange and the sea kept its relentless beat against the rocks, she climbed the spiral stairs. The smell of rusty railings filled her nostrils as she lit the…
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Continue reading →: F1. The Luxury of Slowing DownI have lived in Spain for more than ten years now and, more recently, in the countryside, where the days stretch differently and time softens its edges. My life has slowed in ways I didn’t know I was craving back when everything was measured in urgency and motion. Here, the…
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Continue reading →: T7. Somewhere Between BordersThe morning after New Year’s Eve in Phnom Penh arrived quietly. The park outside the Royal Palace had returned to normal, the ice-cream cartons gone, the kites replaced by traffic and dust. The night before already felt oddly distant, as if it belonged to another version of us. We woke…
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Continue reading →: T6. Letting the Rails DecideThe train pulled out of Bangkok’s Hua Lamphong Station with a series of lurches and reluctant sighs, as if to remind everyone that it was getting far too old for all this hard work. We settled into our hard wooden seats in third class. The pull-down windows, most of them…
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Continue reading →: T5. The Itch to Go (Again)Only a few months after arriving back in Spain, we were off again. Thirty-litre backpacks ready, minds already slipping back into travel mode. It felt like an itch I just had to scratch, despite promising myself I’d behave for at least a year.We chose Bangkok as our first stop deliberately.We’d…
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Continue reading →: T4. Between Arrivals and DeparturesAs I touched down at Heathrow after seven months of backpacking through Central America, I reached for my hand luggage sized backpack. It contained little more than a couple of items of clothing, worn well beyond recognition. At the bottom, grains of sand and scuff marks told the story of…
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Continue reading →: T3. A Gap Year at Nearly Forty, What are you Thinking?At last, our gap year adventure was ready to begin.We had a loose idea of which countries we might visit, and roughly in what order, but not much more than that. We booked the outward flights from Heathrow, partly because they were cheaper, partly because it felt important to say…
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Continue reading →: T2. My First Christmas in SpainI had arrived in Spain in late September, and somehow Christmas had crept up on me quietly, almost unnoticed.In our small village on the Almería and Murcia border, there was just one lonely string of Christmas lights hanging at the entrance, probably unwanted and discarded by a larger town nearby.…
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Continue reading →: T1. A Ferry, a Faulty Bearing and a BeginningSix more days of work.Eighteen days of planning. … And then we were meant to wave goodbye to England from the back of a ferry and head south through France and Spain on the very first leg of our adventure. In theory. In reality, the final weeks looked more like…
